今天看报纸的介绍顺便整理给大家～ 里面有些图片介绍可点选BLOG版本 或是直接到文章中提到的官方网站观看 http://www.wretch.cc/blog/ology&article_id=4119669 TOM FORD MENSWEAR 时尚金童TOM FORD的男装品牌即将在纽约与大家见面了, 这次TOM FORD回来会带给大家多少的惊喜呢? 手工打造的男装定制服会有多大的魅力? 这个时尚圈注目的焦点之星将在2007年4月12日正式发光, 更多讯息请连结至官方网站:http://www.tomford.com 关於TOM FORD的介绍,这里就不多做叙述了, 有兴趣的可以读读下面来自於VOGUE的介绍: (需要翻译的可以点选这里 http://www.mytrans.com.tw/newMytrans/freeTrans/Freesent.aspx) Born in Texas in 1962, Tom Ford went on to become arguably the most influential designer of the last decade. Having initially trained as an actor, he studied interior architecture at Parsons School of Design until 1986, and went on to take positions at Perry Ellis and Cathy Hardwick, before joining Gucci in 1990. Ford was hired by Gucci's then creative director Dawn Mello as chief women's ready-to-wear designer, and later appointed design director. When, in 1994, Gucci was acquired by a Bahrain-based investment firm called Investcorp, Ford was promoted to creative director and moved to Milan with his partner, journalist Richard Buckley. In his first year at the helm, he was credited with putting the glamour back into fashion introducing Halston-style velvet hipsters, skinny satin shirts and car-finish metallic patent boots. In 1995, he brought in French stylist Carine Roitfeld and photographer Mario Testino to create a series of new, modern ad campaigns for the company. By 1999, the house, which had been almost bankrupt when Ford joined, was valued at about $4.3 billion. "We didn't even have a photocopier at one stage," he admits. "We didn't have any paper." In 2000, Ford was named Best International Designer at the first Awards in New York. After Gucci bought a controlling stake in Yves Saint Laurent, Ford was appointed creative director of YSL, too, and communications director of the house's ready-to-wear business, while continuing to design for Gucci. A mighty challenge certainly, but Ford was adamant he could keep the two labels distinct. "Historically, [Gucci] is Sophia Loren. Yves Saint Laurent is Catherine Deneuve. They're both sexy," he told British in February 2001. "It's just that Gucci is a little more obvious than Saint Laurent. The YSL woman might tie her boyfriend up and drip hot wax on him before they have sex, for instance. The Gucci woman is just going to have sex." Ford believes that he owes his success not to talent, but to his energy. He admits to sleeping just two or three hours per night, keeping post-it notes beside the bed in case he wakes up with an idea. "There are many more talented designers than me," he once told an audience at the V&A in London. "But I have a lot of drive and won't let it go." He also credits his "mainstream" appeal. "I'm lucky, I have mass-market tastes," he says. "When I say I like a shoe, generally thousands of people will like it. Thank God, because I would have been a very unhappy person if I hadn't had this kind of success." But others see it quite differently, saying that Ford's secret is the combination of a fine commercial sensibility and a genuine feel for fashion: in his former role at Gucci, he designed shoes, watches, luggage and men's and womenswear as well as planning the company's advertising campaigns and overseeing the development of their two new fragrances, Envy and Rush. Celebrity fans of Ford's style include Madonna, Bianca Jagger and Trudie Styler ("Well, he's perfect, isn't he? He's like Sting, he doesn't do small talk. He doesn't always give very much of himself, so you want more."). But Ford's ultimate sign of approval came from his mother, who was heard to demand her YSL discount card after watching his first runway show for the house. In April 2004, Ford parted company with the Gucci group after he and CEO Domenico de Sole, who is credited as Ford's partner in the success story that is Gucci, failed to agree with PPR bosses over creative control of the Group. His final show for YSL was a celebrity-studded affair as fans, including fellow designers Diane Von Furstenberg, Valentino and Stella McCartney gathered to support and celebrate Ford's work. Having made no secret of the fact that he didn't expect to be designing forever, Ford was rumoured to be making a beeline for Hollywood when his Gucci reign came to an end. Included on his list of lifetime to-dos are having children (although work commitments and his longtime partner Richard Buckley are currently conspiring against him) and making a film. "That is the ultimate design project," he says. "You don't just get to design what people wear, but you design the whole world and whether characters get to live or die. There is a permanence to film that fashion lacks." 这里还有一篇来自中时生活关於此次TOM FORD男装的简介: 时尚金童Tom Ford个人男装品牌将於13日在纽约开张！ 本报记者跨海连线品牌公关，取得全台第一手资料。 时尚金童的魅力，中时读者抢先看！ 从04年离开GUCCI集团後，设计师Tom Ford「不务正业」好一阵子， 说要去拍电影，却与雅诗兰黛集团推出彩妆与香水， 并不时在W等国际杂志和模特儿拍摄宛若交媾姿势的性感照， 就是没一件事与设计服装有关。 但本周五(美国时间周四)，大家最熟悉的时尚金童回来了。 Tom Ford位於纽约麦迪逊与70街交叉口的男装旗舰店选在这天开幕， 并於昨(10)日发布首波全球新闻攻势，在摄影名师David Bailey掌镜下， Tom Ford穿着合身剪裁三件式西装，不制式的搭上围巾，潇洒自在， 代言自家男装的手工精致感。 ■强调手工订制 一件西服做七周 而手工订制的美好经验，就是他多达44页文宣里的重点。 Tom Ford说：「男装最高境界一直是手工订制， 男人造访他的裁缝师，构筑一件让他在人群中突出的设计， 材质的重量、色彩的互搭，或是口袋置放的位置……完完全全符合他的个人需求。」 对男装搞了一年多神秘的Tom Ford，这次大方公布手工制作细节， 他的主要合作品牌Ermenegildo Zegna， 帮他找来英国与义大利小工厂的手工师傅， 西装几乎到了全部一针一线缝制的地步， 连羊毛都强调是从18世纪英国机器纺织，西服量制过程高达25个步骤， 从下单到完成约7周。 鞋子部分，则是义大利拿波里家传两至三代的手工师傅制作， 选材、组合、抛光共需要花掉3周时间，抛光就得上六层， 让鞋子有深浅光泽变化。 Tom Ford之前受「GQ Style」杂志采访时说： 「我想要你的夹克，就是你的专属夹克， 不是那些已被20个好莱坞影星穿上身的那种， 我要反转时尚游戏规则，将过去注重服务的精神带回来。」 ■单价八万起跳 百货纷纷抢进货 Tom Ford新品将於三层楼、9679平方英尺的大店展出， 10日晚间派对，将对媒体与零售商提前曝光， 11日的派对则给VIP级的大户抢先下单。「纽约邮报」指出， Tom Ford现成西装约2500元起跳(台币8万多元)， 订制西装则超过4500美金(台币近15万元)， 但Bergdorf Goodman等顶级百货甚至在没有看到实品的状况下就已经出手采购， 可说未演先轰动。 Tom Ford男装计画在未来3年另外开设米兰、东京、洛杉矶等店， 有趣的是，这次纽约开设地点就选在Gucci大店的斜对面， 而在他担任Gucci创意总监时重整的圣罗兰也即将在同一区域开店， 将形成新欢旧爱打对台的场面。 ■当年救活Gucci 能否再写传奇？ 04年Tom Ford由於和Gucci闹翻而离开， 在之前还曾向「WWD」放话说：「没有我，Gucci会很惨！」 结果Gucci虽然短暂阵痛，却因为挖掘出新任创意总监Frida Giannini这块璞玉， 不但没有更惨，反而蒸蒸日上， 这也使得Tom Ford更需要藉由男装证明自己声势依旧，不会给老东家看扁。 外界关注的，也就是这位时尚金童能否维持当年喊水会冻的超强气势， 在Gucci集团的十年间，他注入性感精神， 把破产边缘的该牌变成03年业绩高达30亿元的时尚王国， 他将包包当成品牌发展重点，也使得全球女性眼光从服装转换到名牌包， 种种影响都让他成为最佳行销典范，而Tom Ford的订制男装， 则将决定他的精彩故事，是否还能再添一笔新的传奇。 引用资料:VOGUE:http://www.vogue.co.uk/whos_who/Tom_Ford/ 中时生活http://kuso.cc/1tka -- O'logy designed by 奥乐奇股份有限公司 O'logy Fashion Life 网路分享平台 http://www.wretch.cc/blog/ology --

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