(再下面的部份就是马德里的部份了　我就打过去 大家ㄍㄧㄥ着点看吧) Some ultras wear paramilitary regalia and caps that wouldn't (ultra=ultra-sur look out of place on a traffic warden. They sing "viva espana" 是皇马的激进球 and one ultra swings the blue and white scarf of Espanyol, 迷後援会。) Barcelona's local and historically pro-Spanish rivals. There's a black van with their new-fascist logo on the side, brought to transport their paraphernalia of flags, banners - and flashbombs. Individually, they don't look much but en masse they're intimidating. Attempts to make eye contact are met with a hostile glare. "It's not normally like this," says madrid fan Ivan Fernandez. "it's because Barcelona are here." His father, Juan Antonio, is socio (member) number 1447, and has been since 1947, the year a lawyer named Santiago Bernabeu raised money through public subscriptions to build a new stadium. He's 75 and talks warmly about the greats he's seen grace his team from Di Stefano to the current stellar hero, the most popular man in Spain, Raul. However, the mood darkens when he talks about the visitors from Catalunya. "They don't see themselves as Spanish and reject anything that comes from Madrid because it's the capital. I know Barcelona is very pretty and that most of the people are fine, but others have an inferiority complex with Madrid. We supported and contributed to Barcelona's Olympics and we were prond that they took place in Spain, but they are against Madrid's bid for 2012. Why?" Another firecraker goes off. It's not as close as the first one, but the atmosphere is tense and the police move everyone on. The Bernabeu is situated on the Paseo de la Castellana (formerly called Avenida del generalisimo Franco), a wide, leafy thoroughfare lined with skyscrapers in the herat of commercial Madrid. Jester hatwearing fans queue patiently against the backdrop of a cheesy commercial radio road shows to access the club shop, where you can have your head super- imposed next to steve McManaman's before paying at one of the three tills. Surprisingly for a club the size of Real, it feels somewhat small-scale. It's no wonder both Barca and Real cite Manchester United as their commercial role model. Having long realised the value of the day-tripping or corporate visitor, Old trafford's megastore has 20 tills. "Barcelona do not matter anymore," says Pablo, a Madrid socio for 40 of his 41 years. "they are like the shit from a dog that sticks in your shoes when you walk in it by mistake. sometimes we have to shake it off. how can we take them seriously when they give us their best player? Catalans are peseteros (money-grabber). They claim to be closer to Europe, but they are so serious we don't know if they are joking or not. Having divided his time between Barcelona and Madrid for over a decade, Lancastrian Michael Turner has more balanced view of the rivals. "Even people who know nothing about football will watch Barca v Madrid game. If it was between two countries it would be call racism, but because it's between two regions it's called rivalry. Catalans believe that Madrilenos are superficial and too big for their boots. They believe that Barca are playing for an ethical cause, unlike those who play for Madrid. They consider themselves better educated and superior beings. Catalans think they embody the upright nature that people like Lineker or Bobby Robson demonstrated - that's partly why they were so highly thought of. (Lineker 就是英国人 Gary Lineker吧 绰号 "Matador" 主斗牛士) "Barceloneses are proud of their city, whereas Madrilenos tend to complain more about the local administration, the traffic. There's actually a lot of respect in Madrid for the way things are done in Barcelona, the way they organised the '92 Olympic games for example. The dislike is definitely more from the catalans and that's because of the political history of repression. That said, the majority of Catalans are reasonably happy with their lot. They would like to respect within a federal framework and a little more but not complete, autonomy from Spain." And football? "There's serious envy at Madrid's current ascendancy. The difference is that Madrid have had a director of football (Jorge Valdano) who knows who to buy. Barcelona haen't. Despite lavashing money, they've bought a succession of players who haven't succeeded." (上面这一段现在看起来好讽刺...XDD) Several of those under-performing Barca players stride purposely into the centre circle of the Bernabeu, a tighter, steeper, vortex of seats than the Nou Camp. Despite having 23.000 fewer seats, the Bernabeu appears more imposing as it towers into the Iberian sky. It's from the inside that both stadiums impress, their outer exposed tiers of the concrete contributing little of aesthetic note. The Barca players communicate their appreaciation of the crowd, knowing that it will be met by whistles which, although strident, don't compare with the Figo abuse. As in Nou Camp, the majority of supporters are middle-aged and middle-class, save for the vocal Ultras behind the goal, their anti-Catalan insults - "Seperatist bastards","Polish shits" (they class Catalans as a mongrel race)- are drowned out by the club anthem Hala Madrid which is more opera house than stadium rock. Officially, the Ultra sur are self-financing, but rumours persist that they recieve tickets and travel assistance from club officials. The same is said of the Boios in Barcelona. With both clubs' presidents democratically elected, it seems hardly likely that candidates would freeze out their most fanatical followers if they are to count on their votes in the next election. There's a 27-point gap between the two sides, the biggest for 74 years, and the 325 travelling Barca fans, tucked away in the nosebleed seats can't be optimistic. But Barca, despite their wretched league form, seem inspired, and it's Luis enrique who grabs a deserved equaliser. He runs to the corner before pointing to his name as objects begin to fall around him from the stands above. Even in April,Madrid is cold enough for the stadium's heaters, under the lip of the third tier, to kick into action. The aficionados are not warmed by the performance on the pitch though, and Real - star or not - are booed off the field. Never mind the huge gap separating champions real and sixth Barcelona'snoses- not beating their deadliest rivals on the pitch either home or away this season really annoys the Madrid faithful. And the feelings is, and always will be, mutual. 全文完 -- ██████████████████ http://tinyurl.com/2cyzo --

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