看到台攀有人转文，想说翻译到队板供大家参考。 我尽量表达专有名词或特定动作，如果有不通顺之处，欢迎指教。 原文转载自Climbing http://ppt.cc/5kV8 ==================================================================== Tech Tips: Sport Climbing - Flight School By Arno Ilgner / Illustration by Jamie Givens 运动攀登技巧：学习坠落 撰文：Arno Ilgner/绘图：Jamie Givens Just because you don’t actually feel afraid to fall does not mean you are completely comfortable falling. It’s the uncertainty that gets us. We know we might fall, so at committing cruxes we hesitate, second-guess, slap lamely for a hold, or simply let go. What we need is more practice with the whole falling process, so we can commit 100 percent to hard climbing. It’s important to dial down the stress of falling a little at a time. Remain comfortable as you practice: don’t just climb up and take a big whipper. You’ll tense up and “endure” the exercise, further ingraining a fear-based mindset. Instead, use the follow-ing methods, which extend your comfort zone in small increments, just like any good “stretching” activity. 尽管不觉得害怕，但这不代表坠落时你能够完全的处之泰然。坠落时的 不确定感会如影随形跟着我们。当我们意识到坠落的可能性，面对眼前 难关我们犹豫、猜疑、怯懦地找个手点抓，甚至直接放弃。我们需要的 正是对於坠落过程的完整练习，以便在处理艰难的攀登路线时能全神贯 注在眼前的路线上。事关紧要的是逐次逐步削减对於坠落的压力。在练 习坠落时保持心情放松，千万别只是爬往高处後就两腿开开往下跳，因 为这样只会让你心情紧绷并抱持着「撑」过这次训练的心态，进而形成 以恐惧为基底的思维模式。相反的，善用下列几个诀窍，就像做好的伸 展操一样，便能够微调你坠落时的放松程度。 THE SET-UP Begin by picking a slightly overhanging sport climb with a clean mid- or upper- section. Start with short falls in case there are obstacles you didn’t notice. The terrain should be easy enough that you can climb up or down without too mu ch effort. Lead up 40 to 50 feet. At the bolt of your choice, stop and have you r belayer lower you about 15 feet, creating a toprope scenario with plenty of rope in the system. Begin practicing here. 准备工作 首先，从挑选中或上层没有太多阻碍并且稍微带有天花板地形的运动攀 登场地开始。第一步要做的是先进行几次短距离的坠落，以确认在坠落 途中没有任何障碍物。突出的平台部分要够简单，足以让你游刃有余地 上、下攀。先锋攀登约12~15公尺後在你选定的耳片附近停下，让你的 确保员将你垂降约5公尺，这时整个系统就像上方确保攀登一样，有着 足够的绳距。坠落训练於是展开。 TOPROPED FALLS Your belayer should lock you off (not taking in slack) as you climb up a few feet. Now take a fall. Focus on your form: look down, with arms and legs should er-width apart and bent, and exhale as you fall. Looking down allows you to see your landing zone. A relaxed-but-ready arm and leg position allows you to respond to the impact into the rock, if any. Exhaling throughout the fall helps you stay relaxed. The longer your fall, the longer your exhale should be. Next , climb up five or six feet while your belayer locks you off, still on toprope, then fall as before, looking down and keeping arms and legs shoulder-width apart and bent. Exhale all the way through the fall. As you gain comfort, slowly increase the distance of the fall, but never climb above the level of the highest clipped bolt. If you begin tensing up, backtrack to shorter falls until you can fully relax. Once you’re falling 15 or 20 feet on a slack toprope, exhaling the entire way, you can move on to short lead falls. 上方确保坠落。 当你往上攀爬时，确保员应该收紧而非放松绳子，接着就放胆坠落。此时 注意自身的体态：向下看，保持臂膀跟腿与肩同宽且弯曲（译者：即身体 放松），在下坠时呼气。向下看以便看准降落的区域，双臂与双腿保持放 松但又充分准备的状态，让你得以对於与任何岩壁（石）的冲击做出反应 。在坠落过程中呼气，让你能够保持放松。呼气的长度应该与坠落的距离 成正比。接着，在保持上方确保的状态下，请确保员收紧绳索并往上爬2至 3公尺後，按照先前所述要点再坠落一次。当你对坠落不感到紧张时，试着 逐步增加坠落距离，但千万不要高於最顶端的过绳快扣。如果练习过程中 发现不安感增加，请减少坠落距离，直到你可以放心坠落为准。一但你在 上方确保绳索不收紧的状况下可以承受4到6公尺的坠落时，你就可以开始 练习短距离的先锋攀登坠落。 THERE’S A CATCH When you practice falling, make sure you also practice catching a patner’s falls. Belaying falls will help you understand what to look and ask for when you’re leading. If you are inexperienced or nervous about catching falls, you’ll contract and stay rooted to the ground, causing a hard catch and possibly slamming the leader into the rock. Instead, “give in” to the fall and allow yourself to be pulled up two to five feet or more, depending on the force of the fall. Don’t jump; let the force of the fall do the work. Practice catching people of different body sizes. Giving a knowledgeable, cushioned catch is critical for keeping your partners safe during lead falls. 抓准坠落时机 当你练习如何坠落时，请一并练习如何确保夥伴坠落。确保坠落的攀登者 将帮助你了解当你进行先锋攀登时应该留意或要求的细节。如果你对确保 坠落尚不熟悉或感到焦虑，你可能会过於紧绷并且死命地收紧绳索，造成 僵硬的坠落确保，或甚至将先锋攀登者硬生生地甩向岩壁。相反的，你应 该「顺从」坠落的动态，并根据坠落的强度让你自己被拉起1公尺，甚至更 长的距离。切记，不要跳起来，而是让坠落的力道将你拉离地面。练习确 保不同体型的人。提供思虑周延并且柔和的坠落确保将是保全夥伴在先锋 坠落时的安危关键。 LEAD FALLS Using the same rigging as before, climb to the high bolt while your belayer gives you a regular lead belay. With the bolt at your waist, let go, falling as far as the slack in the system allows. Pay attention to your form: looking down, arms and legs bent, exhaling through the fall. Climb up a move or two and practice short lead falls until you are comfortable and relaxed. Slowly increase the length of the fall. The belayer should be giving you a very active, cushioned catch. Exhale slowly all the way down each fall, and remember to simply let go, not jump out. Jumping out will cause you to swing more sharply into the rock as the rope comes tight. You can test this effect, carefully, to see how it works and improve your falling and impacting skills. At all times, the catches should feel very soft. Spread out your practice sessions over several days, and slowly increase the distances until you are taking falls longer than those you’re facing on your project routes. Incorporate a few falls into your daily warm-up routine. You can also do this exercise on a project you’re working on, practicing a specifi c fall that might be holding you back. If you discover that your project does not have a clean, safe fall, you’ve learned something vitally important. Pick a safer climb for pushing your limits. With a little time focusing on commitment to falling, you’ll improve your commitment to climbing. It may be too late to get physically stronger for this autumn’s projects, but a clearer mind might be just what you need to send. 先锋坠落 按照前述要点，在确保者持续收绳的状况下爬到最高点，当耳片大约在你腰 际时就放手，坠落的距离以能让系统中松弛的绳段延展为标准。此时注意先 前提醒过的坠落预备体态。向上爬几步，然後练习短距离坠落直到你不再焦 虑且能够放松为止。坠落途中别忘记呼气，并注意仅仅是放手，不要从岩壁 上一跃而下。跳跃动作在绳索绷紧时会使你以更尖锐的角度摆荡、冲击岩壁 。你可以在仔细控管的前提下测试跳跃坠落的效果，并从中学习如何改善坠 落与应付冲击的技巧。在绝大部分的情况下，确保的动作应该是非常柔和的 。将你练习坠落的时段延长至数日，并且慢慢增加坠落距离，直到你能够处 理相较於你在攀爬路线时可能面对的更长的坠落。将坠落数次安排进你的每 日热身常项里。你也可以在你目前正试着克服的路线上进行这项训练，练习 处理让你一坠再坠的难关。如果你发现在该路线上无法俐落、安全的坠落， 你就学到事关重要的一课：选择更安全的路线作为提昇自身极限的挑战。花 费少许时间专注於坠落上，你就能更聚精会神地攀岩。为了接下来要面对的 路线，也许已来不及进行体能提昇训练，但清晰的思绪也许正是你需要的。 --

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