前几天有人提到要淘汰山房的Ocun勾环（此牌产品以前似乎发生过爆扣事件） 刚好在脸书上看到这篇文章，就顺手番一下。 这篇文章最棒的是--有图有真相，用剖面图告诉你，用被绳索磨凹的勾环爬岩 ，无异於拿刀割绳索！文章里面也有提到一些确保小技巧，不禁让我想到以前 刚开始爬岩都喜欢站很远很远，我想一定是因为我们都不敢坠落，所以没发生 什麽意外吧...老天保佑。 全文转译自：http://ppt.cc/i;tQ ＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝ QC Lab: Dangers of rope worn carabiners There was an accident a few weeks ago at the Red River Gorge where a climber fell going to the second bolt and the rope was cut completely through by the fixed draw’s sharp-edged, rope-end biner at the first bolt 数周前，红河谷（Red River Gorge）有位攀岩者正准备要挂上第二个快扣时坠落 ，绑在身上的绳索被固定在墙上的快扣从连接攀登者的尖锐部分完全切断。 （详细事件请见：http://ppt.cc/zBdf ） If you recall the previous testing and commentary on this subject I had stated that I’d only seen ropes getting “sheathed” by sharp-edged biners—usually mid-route—and subsequently learned of an accident in the Czech Republic (in a climbing gym) where the rope-grooved sharp biner (also at the first bolt) severed the rope completely, resulting in the climber hitting the ground. Luckily in both cases, the climbers were not badly injured. 如果你想请先前针对此类事件做过的测试跟评论* 我当时表明我只见到绳子被快扣的尖锐端「剥皮」，这样的情形通常发生 在路线的中间部分（？）过没多久就传来在捷克的运动攀岩场发生意外事 件，同样在第一个快扣高度，绳子就被快扣被绳子磨凹的尖锐部分完全切 断，造成攀登者坠地的事故。幸好在这两件事故中，两位攀岩者都没有受 重伤。 (相关测试请见：http://ppt.cc/Gagd) Which biners get badly grooved and why? 到底哪一个快扣会严重磨损，又为什麽呢？ From my experience falling all over routes, all over the county, I’ve noticed three primary locations where fixed biners become badly grooved: 从我在全国各地攀岩的坠落经验来看，我注意到快扣固定在三个位置上时有 可能会严重磨损。 1) First Bolt Belayers typically stand too far away from the wall. This results in a sharp angle in the rope from the belayer to the first biner and then up the route. When lowering a climber, the rope, often dirty and gritty, slowly wears a groove in the biner. Both incidents I’ve heard of where the rope was cut completely, it was the first bolt that was the culprit. 一、第一个快扣 确保员通常都站离墙边太远。这使的确保者跟第一个快扣尖形成锐利的角度後 ，绳索就往上连接。当攀岩者下降时，已经沾满泥沙的绳索便慢慢地在扣环上 磨出条沟。在这两起绳索完全被切断的事故里，凶手都是墙上的第一个快扣。 2) Crux Bolt Many climbers being lowered off the same biner (falling at the crux onto the same bolt). This has the same effect as above. The sharp angle of the rope wrapping around the biner and the weight of the climber being lowered is what is allowing the rope to slowly cut through the biner. 二、难关部分的快扣 许多攀岩者都在同个快扣部分被下降（在同样地方坠落）。这与前段提到的影响 相同。绳索以尖锐的角度贴着勾环，而攀岩者的体重正是使得绳索得以逐渐磨蚀 勾环的元凶。 3) Out of line bolts Often if the bolt line isn’t straight, an out-of-line biner can end up being grooved. Once again, this is caused by the rope and its angle running over the biner surface. 三、不在路线上的快扣 如果路线上耳片的排列不呈直线，在直线外的快扣可能会被严重磨损。同样的，这 是由於绳索与穿过勾环的尖锐角度所造成。 Testing We’d done some testing before, but decided to do one more super quick test in our drop tower just to see what it would take to cut a rope on a sharp-edged biner in a harsh, but realistic, loading scenario. 测试 我们先前曾做过些测试，但仍决定在我们的坠落测试塔（drop tower）上进行一次 快速的检测，以了解在拟真的强力冲击状况下，造成绳索被勾环尖端所切断的原因。 Setup Sharp-edged biner (actual biner used in test shown directly above) 80 kg mass brand new 10.2 mm rope One harsh, but realistic, drop Static belay 准备事项： 具有尖锐边缘的勾环（如上图所示） 80公斤的重物 全新的10.2mm（动态）绳 拟真的强力坠落 静态确保 Results Rope cut on the FIRST drop (see image below) Max load reached - ~7 kN 测试结果： 绳索在第一次坠落就被切断（见下图） 达到最大坠落系数，大约7kn Discussion Once again, what does this mean? What does 7 kN actually mean at the piece of protection? What does it mean to you, the gear and the rope? Well… 7 kN falls can and do happen in the field. These can occur: 讨论： 我们不禁要提出同样的问题：这测试意味着什麽？7kn的冲击力道对一项安全 防护器材意味着什麽？这对你、你的装备以及绳索意味着什麽？嗯...7kn的坠 落力道有可能，而且也的确在现实环境中发生，这可能造成以下事项： usually when there is not much rope out (i.e., early on in the climb). With not enough rope out, there is little rope to help absorb the energy of the fall. 确保者还没有给太多绳（在开始攀登初期），在没有太多绳索的状况下，能够 吸收坠落力量的绳索有限。 and with a close-to-static belay (i.e., belayer hauls in rope and even leans back , trying to keep the climber from hitting the deck.). Loads are decreased with a dynamic belay, but increase with a static belay. 如果确保者采用的是近乎静态的确保方法（确保者猛力抽绳，甚至将身体後倾， 试着让攀岩者免於撞上墙面）。在使用动态确保时，冲击力道会减低；反之，静 态确保会增加冲击力道。 The climber usually “feels” these sorts of falls. Your kidneys take a beating, your hips are sore, and your feet may even hurt from slamming into the wall. I’ve seen many a climber take a harsh fall low on the route—it's usually followed by a deep grunt and “lower me”. 攀岩者通常会「感受」到这样的坠落经验。腰酸背痛，你的脚甚至因为撞上墙面 而受伤。我已经看过太多攀岩者在路线开头就遇上严重坠落，通常这会伴随着几 声哀号以及「放我下来」的要求。 The reality is these sorts of harsh falls low on a route with a sharp biner in play and the rope running over its sharp edge at angle (belayer standing away from the wall) can, and obviously have, resulted in damaging and even cutting the rope. 事实就是，这些在路线起步的严重坠落，搭配上被磨尖的勾环，以及以尖锐角度穿 过勾环尖锐部分（确保者站离墙面太远）的绳索，就是造成绳索耗损，甚至被切断 的主因。 Bottom Line Now I don’t want to get into some ethical debate on whether routes should be left with fixed draws or not. The bottom line is you can do a few things to reduce the impact on fixed gear: stand close to the wall when belaying, especially when lowering use your own first draw on the first bolt of fixed routes use long slings to help reduce rope drag use steel biners on “high traffic” fixed draws 应注意的基本原则： 我并不想重提那些是否要在墙上固定放置快扣的老生常谈。但在使用固定在墙上的装 备时，至少有几项重点事项应该注意。 确保的时候站离墙面近点，在下降他人时更是如此。 在有放固定快扣的路线上，在第一个耳片扣上自备的快扣。 使用长sling(?)以减少拖拉绳索（译：推测是用长sling以增加绳索过勾环的角度） 在使用频率高的快扣处使用钢制勾环。 And of course, it’s in everyone’s best interest to replace worn and tattered fixed gear. 当然，最好是能淘汰掉已经磨损不堪的固定装备。 Be careful out there 快乐出门，平安回家 ========================================================================= 译注： 1.原文中bolt部分，因为bolt都连接着快扣，当讲到第几个bolt的高度时，一律翻成 「到第xx个快扣的高度」 2.有几个专有名词我依照印象翻，请高手指正 carabiner/biner:勾环 quickdraw:快扣 bolt：耳片 sling:就叫sling=.=，我不知道中文 lower：只将攀岩者往地面下降的动作，为了与rappel(垂降)做区分，一律翻成下降 sheath：动词意思为套上护套或护鞘。个人推想是绳子受磨损後，绳皮经摩擦後起 毛边的情况，所以引申翻译为「剥皮」 fixed gear:直翻为固定（在墙上）装备，应该是指固定放在墙上的快扣。 匆忙翻译，如有疏漏，欢迎指教 --

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