请回想，十五岁的你在做什麽？ 十一岁的悟饭已经打败塞鲁，拯救了地球 十一岁的小杰走上万里寻父的旅途（虽然跑去杀蚂蚁） 十四岁的风见拿下闪电霹雳车冠军 而来自法国的Enzo Oddo在十五岁那年完成攀岩生涯中第一条9a+路线 原文转录自Petzl官网 （http://ppt.cc/Lmf2） ＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝＝ Enzo is the youngest member of our team of climbers. The fifteen-year-old from Nice has already sent several 9a+ routes. This summer, on the 15th of August, he achieved his greatest success with the mythical "Biographie 9+" at Ceuse. Enzo是Petzl攀岩团队中最年轻的一员。这个来自尼斯的十五岁年轻小伙子已经完成 数几条难度9a+的路线。今年八月十五日，他在完成位於瑟斯的「9+自传」路线後， 达到攀岩生涯的顶峰。 We had the opportunity to meet with Enzo and ask him a few questions about his tick of the summer. 我们（Petzl团队）有机会与Enzo面谈并且问几个有关於这个耗费他整个夏日的难缠 计画。 Petzl : What prompted you to try this route? 请问是什麽鼓舞你试着完成这条路线？ Enzo : It's one of the rare routes at this grade in France, and of course I'd seen Chris Sharma's video. I wanted to see if I could do it; it's really my style. I made a first attempt on the route in November 2009, but I really didn't have enough reach for the big move... I ate soup all winter and went back, starting on the first weekends in June. A few precious centimeters allowed me to finally get the move. I started working it at the beginning of summer, with a break in mid-July because of my shredded fingers!!! At the end of July, the key hold on the start broke, but I didn't let it get to me. I rested a bit again and went back 5 days later. Actually, I figured out the new boulder move for the start pretty fast. It felt like it would work! And in the end it didn't change the difficulty of the route much. 在法国，像这样困难的路线屈指可数，而我当然看过Chris Sharma的纪录片。我想看看 我是否也能做到，这跟我的风格如出一辙。我在2009年11月首次尝试攀爬这条路线，但 在动作较大的部份，我连边都构不到。於是我整个冬天都不断补充营养（喝汤），并在 今年六月第一个周末回到这里。我终於客服那宛如咫尺天涯的几公分差距并做出特定动 作。我自夏初便将心力投注其上，虽然七月中因为手指受伤而休养一阵子。七月底时， 路线开头部分一个重要手点崩落，但我没因此受伤。稍事休息五天後我又再度上阵。事 实上，我很快便找到了新的抱石动作弥补崩落的起攀部分，而事後也证明这条路线的难 度并不受影响。 I immediately started working "Biographie" again by alternating with days on other routes and at other crags (Entraygues). It's important for motivati on, so you don't get saturated. And voila! On the 15th of August it got done !!! Physically I still had something left, mentally I was focused and relaxed, and voila! I got it. 我即刻再度着手「自传」这条路线，期间也搭配攀爬其他岩壁（Entraygues）上的路线。 保持向上的动力，如此才不会觉得厌烦。一切努力就在八月十五当天水到渠成。也许在体 能方面我没有耗尽全力，但在精神方面我用最轻松的态度展现高度的专注，我就是这样完 成这条路线的。 Petzl : How many attempts did it take? Enzo : I must have put in at least forty. I sent the first part at least 25 times. （问）：你总过尝试过几次？ （答）：至少有四十来次。光开头部分就试超过25次了。 Petzl : What were you feeling when you clipped that anchor? Enzo : It was a real feeling of happiness and also true freedom since this is the route I've worked the most, it's my first 9a+. It really demanded a lot of work and motivation. When you work a route for a long time, it generates a lot of stress , and getting it releases all that pressure!!! （问）：完攀时你有什麽感受？ （答）：满心欢喜以及无边的自在。这是我付出最多心力的路线，同时也是我第一条9a+的 路线，这的确耗费不少心血。当你长时间处理同一条路线时，沈重压力也随之而来，而完 成这条路线就是消解这些压力的最佳良方。 Petzl : Did you do any specific training? Enzo : Not really, but working and sending "Victima Perez" at Margalef really helped me. It's the same style: super endurance with no big rest. （问）：你有进行特定训练嘛？ （答）：说不上是训练。在Margalef的「Victima Perez」」（路线）有相同的攀登风格： 超凡的耐力且没有可供休息的大点，完成这路线确实让我获益良多。 Petzl : The day you sent it, were there a lot of people there to encourage you? Enzo : It's true that there were about 30 people on the ground, but it was cool; it didn't bother me. When I make an attempt, I isolate myself. I get into my bubble, and I ignore everything except the next move. I have to concentrate to the max. （问）：你完攀该路线的当天是否有许多观众在场替你打气？ （答）：事实上大约有三十人在现场，但现场的气氛还算平稳。当我专注尝试完成某条路 线时，在场的人员并不会影响我，因为我几乎将自己与外界隔离。我进入了我的小小世界 并且只专注在下一步动作上，我必须要全神贯注在攀爬。 Petzl : So, you're number what to have done Biographie? Enzo : I must be the seventh person (after Chris, Sylvain, Patxi, Dave, Ethan and Ramon). （问）：所以你是屈指可数完成「自传」这条路线的人。 （答）：我应该是史上第七人。 Petzl : Ceuse ? Enzo : It's really a huge crag, with so many beautiful routes, and they should all be done. It's also one of the advantages of Biographie that you can also do other routes next to it to relax and stay motivated! （问）：你对瑟斯的评价呢？ （答）：有着许多绝妙路线的巨大岩壁，每条路线都值得一试。「自传」的好处之一是你 可以藉由附近其他路线来纾压及保持冲劲。 Petzl : What projects do you have now? Enzo : I'm planning to have a pretty intense year of climbing. I'm super psyched to try Papi Chullo 9a+ at Oliana, and there are lots of new routes to do at Margalef this winter. This fall I'm looking for a window to go to Frankenjura. I've got to get on Action Directe 9a and Shangri La 8c+. I'm continuing my schooling by correspondence with the CNED. I'm starting my second year! But I'm really going to increase my climbing this year. I'm also planning a good month at Bleau to do a ton of bouldering. That's also part of my climbing. With bouldering, I know I'll have problems with my reach and that I'll have to forget about some moves, but that's ok. Also, tomorrow I'm going back up to Grand Sablat for a few days. It's a crazy site, and it's cool up there with the altitude. The view over the Meije is amazing. I'll also be part of the Petzl Roc Trip in Mexico!! （问）：接下来有其他计画吗？ （答）：我正规划有着忙於攀岩的一年。个人非常向往尝试在Oloana的「PApi Chullo」 （9a+），而Margalef在这个冬天也开发了许多新路线。我希望能在这秋天有机会能造访 Frankenjura，并着手攀登「Action Directe」（9a）以及[Shangri La]（8c+）。我也藉 由远距教学来进行我在CNED第二年的课程。但今年我真的想增加攀岩量。我也想在枫丹白 露好好花上一整个月的时间磨练抱石技巧，抱石也是我攀登的要项之一。藉由抱石，我发 现我在延展（reach）方面的问题，并且修正掉几个姿势。而我明天就要返回Grand Sablat 停留几天，那实在是个疯狂的攀岩妙处，在高海拔触还能俯望整个Meije。当然，我也会参 加Petzl在墨西哥的「Roc Trip」攀岩计画。 Petzl : Do you put up routes? Enzo : It's something I'm really interested in, but I don't have any experience yet. I dream of finding new crags with nice lines. I'm not that motivated to put up connections on crags that are already full. （问）：你会寻找新路线吗？ （答）：我真的很有兴趣，但在这方面我完全没有经验。我企图着在开发新的岩壁以及路 线，我对已经布满路线的岩壁实在不知如何着手。 Petzl : How important are grades for you? Enzo : I find the grades quite good overall. What's most important is the real difficulty of the moves, the effort I'll need to send it. I know that Shangri La is going to be very difficult for me, and that's what motivates me to go. （问）：你觉得难度对你的意义？ （答）：不错。重点在於关键动作的难度，以及完成它所需耗费的努力。我知道Shangri La对我来说会很困难，而这就是驱使我去尝试的诱因。 Petzl : Your future in climbing? Enzo : I want to do it as much as possible and maybe make a living from it for a while. I still haven't decided on my future career. （问）：你对攀岩的期许？ （答）：爬越多越好，也许成为职业攀岩者也不一定。我还没有决定未来的方向。 Petzl : Which climbers do you admire the most? Enzo : Alex Huber, Dave Graham, Chris Sharma, Daniel Woods and Ty Landman (I've just seen his "Between the trees" video. It's incredible, he conquered the forest in a month; only "The Island" held him off. （问）：你最欣赏哪位攀岩者？ （答）：Alex Huber, Dave Graham, Chris Sharma, Daniel Woods以及Ty Landman （我刚看完他的「Between the trees」影片）。那影片真是太棒了，虽然「The Island」 让他花费较多时间，他还是在一个月内完成那片树林里的路线。 Petzl : Competitions? Enzo : I do them a bit from time to time. Next year I'm planning to enter a few "Open" comps to see what happens! （问）：会想参加比赛吗？ （答）：我一直都有在尝试，明年我会参加几项公开赛来试试身手。 Petzl : Besides climbing? Enzo : I hang out with my friends, I read a lot, and I spend time on the computer! I mostly listen to music, lots of rock, but also everything else (except for French pop!). Now : "Nothing else matters" Metallica, "Next Episode" Dr. Dre et "How we do" de Mount Sims. （问）：除了攀岩之外，你还做些什麽？ （答）：跟我的朋友在一起，阅读、玩电脑。我很喜欢听音乐，尤其是摇滚乐，基本上 除了法式流行乐以外，我什麽都听。现在最喜欢的是Metallica的「Nothing else matters」、Dr. Dre的「Next Episode」跟Mount Sims的「How we do」。 --

※ 发信站: 批踢踢实业坊(ptt.cc) ◆ From: 140.119.144.114