※ 引述《korn5 (绿地公园)》之铭言： : 经由moonshade大的介绍，跟南方工具联络 : 他们可以弄到Rigid TS2400，一台17000。 : 说BOSCH的都被大司订走了.... : 其实我的力山已经卖掉了，小赔一点，因为买得很便宜(6750) : 正在研究这台，评价好像还不错 : http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=875.0 : 与BOSCH的比较 : 有人用过或研究过Rigid这台吗？ : 我需要小声一点点的喷射机....XDD 刚刚看了一下finewoodworking 的user review 似乎准头很容易跑掉，要常常调整的样子 bosch的review 似乎都不错，不过好像Ridgid 的review比较多 posted by: Jon H. 04/09/08 4:25 PM Rating 3 Stars I've had my TS2400 for almost 2 years now. It's been a hate-love-hate relationship. The first month or two were frustrating. I had a hard time getting a square cut (edge perpendicular to the face) and boards tended to wander away from the fence. Since this was my first table saw ever, I figured it was me. Eventually I discovered that the heads on the bolts connecting the rip fence to it's rail-guide were sitting proud of the table. This caused boards to tip and drift. A quick trip to HD to get bolts with lower profile heads cured the problem. Once that issue was corrected, I fell in love with the saw. I immediately upgraded the blade to a high-end Freud. The portability and collapsible stand are awesome. The fence is great, especially the t-slots on the sides and top. The cut quality was very nice and smooth. A couple months ago, the love affair ended. I ripped some boards to glue-up panels. I had a bear of a time getting the glue edges to line up. If I laid the panels flat, the joint was tight on one side, but had a gap on the other. The edges were not perpendicular to the faces again. I rechecked the rip fence bolts, and they were still ok. Checked the blade to make sure it was perpendicular to the table, and it was not. Ok, it had drifted off it's setting. Reset it to perpendicular and re-rip the boards. After a 6-8 rips, the blade had drifted away from 90 degrees again. Readjust and rip some more. Every 6-10 rips, the blade would need to be re-adjusted. This issue persisted for about a week, then vanished as mysteriously as it had appeared. No sooner had the blade tilt issue gone away then I started getting rough edges on ripped boards. Checked blade-to-mitre slot parallelism. It was off by 1/100th. I adjusted it back to be within .002". Still had nasty blade marks on ripped edges. Double-checked blade parallelism, and it was still within .002". Checked rip fence-to-miter slot parallelism. It was off by more than .01. Seemed odd that after approximately a year with no problems that both the blade and fence would get so far out of whack at the same time. I chalked it up to an unfortunate coincidence. Cuts were now smoother, but not what I was accustomed to. I thought perhaps it was the blade. After a year or so of use, odds are it was getting a bit dull. So I upgraded to a Woodworker II. Adjusted blade parallelism, adjusted fence parallelism. Ahhh...that's more like it, silky smooth cuts again. Well, the joy only lasted for 6-8 cuts. Grrr...check blade parallelism again. It was off by over .01" again. Adjust the blade. Still getting rough edges. What the...Check the fence, it's off again as well. So, I've been chasing square set-ups ever since. I've discovered the problem is due to excessive arbor run-out. I can easily deflect the blade by more than .01" with my finger. So, the 2400 will be put out to pasture and used only for construction and remodeling projects where accuracy aren't critical. It was fun while it lasted.... posted by: ElliotZ 04/19/07 5:11 PM Rating 3 Stars I've had this saw almost a year. I couldn't fit a cabinet saw in my small shop and don't have 220V there either, so I was limited to portable and contractor saws. I liked the saw a lot at first. And there are still things I like about it now. I suppose it would be good if I were a contractor working on site. But as a furniture maker, I find it's lacking. It's not a matter of the power (I had no false illusions of it ripping 10/4 hard maple or oak). My problem is its accuracy. The fence is pretty good, but can be knocked out of position too easily. The biggest problem is the arbor which simply does not stay square. This is both a safety hazard (can cause binding which can result in kickback) and destroys your accuracy. It's fine if you're just trying to rip to within 1/16" or so. But if you're trying to cut rabbits or tenons with it, it really can mess them up. I've spent more time cleaning up the tenons I cut with this table saw than it would have taken me to cut the tenons by hand. I have set and re-set the arbor to square the plane many times. I have cranked the allen nuts as hard as I possibly could, but it will not stay square. Quite frustrating. As a result, I don't trust the saw for anything that requires real accuracy (< 1/16") and basically avoid using it unless I have to. --

※ 发信站: 批踢踢实业坊(ptt.cc) ◆ From: 198.182.56.5 ※ 编辑: moonshade 来自: 198.182.56.5 (01/21 16:01)