会想打这篇是因为觉得刚来美国能在一个月内考完驾照与买到新车算是动作蛮快的， 也希望自己能帮助到板上刚到美国的新生一些忙与买车所需注意的事项， 减少他们的担心与旁徨! 在NJ这边我想你想买车的第一步就是””赶快去考驾照””， 考完照Dealer才肯给你拿车与签约，他也才能帮你办注册的手续， 之前我自己就是太急，想说有人可以拿国际驾照买车与开车， 但是基本上这应该在NJ行不通，我就是这样被打回票，即使订下了车子， 你还是不能开走，因为你不能买保险然後Dealer也不敢让你开走， 简而言之就是，快去考驾照!! 考照可以参考纽约版的NJ考照懒人包! 买新车(我是买新车，二手车的人可以参考我的议价流程与买车Tip): 我是买2010 Honda Civic Lx，到最後完全办到好的价钱是低於Invoice 100块， 也算是我自己还满意的价钱，只是没杀到我的终极价钱很惋惜就是了! 1.先到KBB寻找dealer与网路上request quote: KBB: http://www.kbb.com/ 它所需要你填的大概就是你的基本资料和最主要是你的电话和e-mail， 当你今天request quote完之後，我保证你隔天会有接不完的电话与收不完的E-mail. 电话我一律的回答是: If your quote is fine, I will appoint with you for testing of drive.然後和他不用废话太多浪费钱。 2.比价工作与价钱暗藏玄机: 比价工作我自己是会做一张Excel表让自己知道哪个dealer是最低价， 到最後才选定3个dealer到他那试车与谈价钱。重点是谁是最低价呢? 通常Dealer给你的价钱不包含一项叫做Destination Charge (有的会包含)， 甚至机车一点的Dealer会故意报同款车但是是手排的价钱! 所以会让车价看起来很低然後吸引你去它那看车， 最好这个可以在E-mail上问清楚所有的价钱，最好是办到好的价钱， 但是通常Dealer不会给你，然後一直卢你去看车，重点是Dealer不是好人， 请不用对他有同理心(深深这麽觉得)!! 所以给一个比较General的说法就是，确定你的价钱有无包含Destination Charge 与这个价钱是否是自排的价钱，确定之後比价完，办到好的价钱再到Dealer那谈! 3.价钱玄机 (以下摘录自Buying car tips，列举Dealer会提出的报价，请仔细参考， 里面有我自己的注记，所以应该算是重点中的重点了): 简而言之就是: 车价+ Destination charge + Car tax + NJ tire Fee ($7) +New Plate Fee ($279) 1. "ADM" or "ADP" Charges (Additional Dealer Markup) (Do not need!!) 2. Advertising Fees (Honda is included in invoice price) Many dealers are sticklers about this fee, and it's difficult to get them to drop it, but some do waive the fee. If a dealer adds on their own advertising fee above and beyond this, they are out of bounds. Dealers try to charge $250-$1000, but it should not be more than $250. Ford dealers use the cryptic term "FDAF/LMDA" on their invoice. "FDAF" stands for "Ford Dealer Advertising Fund", and the "LMDA" stands for Lincoln Mercury Dealer Advertising. Why can't they just disclose it as "ad fee"? I didn't pay an ad fee for my Lexus in 1998 or the Mazda Millenia in 1999. Honda add fees are built into the invoice price, don't let them charge you extra. Other companies choose their own cryptic acronym, like DAA (Dealer Area Advertising), TDA (Toyota Dealer Advertising Fee), HDA, you get the picture. If it ends with an "A", it's most likely an advertising fee. Speaking of advertising, dealers are neither grateful nor shy about plastering their name on the trunk of your shiny new car at a cost of $0 to them. You then spend the next several years advertising their dealership free of charge with your moving billboard. You should charge them a $600 advertising fee for that. 3. "Dealer Floorplan Assistance" Fees/Wholesale Financial Reserves/ Dealer Interest Fee (No Charge!It’s Factory expense not mine.) Have them remove this insult. Dealer Floorplan Interest is the interest that dealers pay for loans to buy the cars on their lot. The longer the car sits unsold on the lot, the more $150 interest checks the dealer pays. They want you to "assist" them in "paying it", which is the factory's expense, not yours. Dealers know we are on to them, so some have changed the name to a confusing term called "Wholesale Financial Reserves." or "Dealer Interest Fee". 4.Dealer Prep (No Charge! Factory have already paid! ) The most common scam, because it's so believable. They act like a team of NASA experts performed a 3 day 15,000 point check of your car. Dealer prep "covers their cost" of removing plastic films on the seats, vacuuming the car, and preparing it for sale, done by their lowest paid employee. But most MSRP stickers show these costs are covered by the car maker. Here's the MSRP sticker from my Lexus SC300: The factory pays the dealer for this pre-delivery service. When my Lexus SC300 arrived, it took the dealer 2 hours to peel the film, remove cardboard, install fuses, check the liquids, perform a 10 mile test drive, and hand me the keys. If a dealer charges a $500 dealer prep, you're paying them $250 per hour! Are you boiling mad yet? Often it's permanently printed on the buyer's form to make you think it's mandatory, but nearly everyone I know is able to make the dealer drop it by adding a credit to the next line. If they refuse to remove it, just walk. Tell them you want to see if the other local dealers will drop the fee. 5. Destination Charge (Must charge) Dealers pay a destination charges to have cars delivered on auto transport trucks. For my 1998 Lexus SC300, it's $495, passed on to us. This is one of the few legitimate fees. Verify the amount with online pricing sites before you go in to buy. 6. Documentation Fees (In DMV, it is cheaper than 249) Expenses like registration, tags, title, and other state fees. Determine the fees your state charges before you go shopping. Call the Department of Motor Vehicles to determine the cost of registering a new car, and getting the tags if necessary. It may be cheaper to transfer the tag from your old car to the new one. Once you know all documentation fees, determine if the dealer is padding the charge. Have the salesman give a breakdown of every fee in writing. 7. Drive off Deposit (No charge!!) A bogus fee that greediest of dealerships pile on those with bad credit. The purpose of this fee is to steal your rebate from you. One reader had a $900 rebate on his car, but the dealer stole it right back with a $900 drive off deposit. What does "Drive Off Deposit" mean? Nothing, it's a meaningless term. If you see a drive off deposit on your worksheet, just drive off, no deposit. 8. Window VIN# Etching Fee (stupid fee!!) A stupid fee for etching the VIN# or other anti theft information into your side windows. It costs next to nothing for the dealer to do it, and the average fee is about $300. You can buy same kit in auto parts stores for $20 , and do it yourself. 9. Factory Holdback (No charge!! If charge, remove immediately!) US auto makers pay dealers a "factory holdback" of 3% MSRP on every car sold. Mercedes pays 3%, Lexus is 2%, but Edmunds claims Lexus has no holdback. BMW, Japanese imports, etc., pay 2% quarterly to the dealership. It's called holdback, because the factory holds back money from the dealer until they sell the car. This is accounted for by charging the dealer for holdback on the invoice, paying them back when the car is sold. On a $30,000 car, the holdback is $900. This appears to you and me as though the dealer paid $900 more for the car than he did. This is done by the factory as a means to compensate dealers for interest on loans that they take out to buy the cars from the factory, and also to provide a little bit of profit to the dealer. The holdback is included in every invoice price. This is how dealers can sell you a car at invoice, because the factory refunds them the holdback once the car is sold. They can sell you a $30,000 car at invoice and have a $900 positive cash flow. Many people don't know holdback exists, including many car salesman, as this goes directly to the dealer, and it effectively reduces the dealer's cost of the car. Many dealers deny it exists, or tell the customer it's a dealer expense, and try to add it on to the contract make the customer "pay" for it. It's the factory's expense once the car is sold. Now the dealer is double collecting. If any dealer tries to itemize you separately for holdback, leave immediately, you'll surely be subject to many more unscrupulous tricks. Don't let a dealer tell you there's no holdback, it's the business plan that the whole industry is structured to. Denial is a popular trick used by dealers in Hawaii. But many good car dealers list holdback on their web sites. 10. LieNance Managers That's my funny name for some Finance Managers who lie and cheat, for example , telling you that your credit score is too low to get a good APR, or telling you that the bank requires you to buy a warranty, gap insurance, VIN etch, or credit life in order for you to get the loan. 11. Port Prep Fee or Port Installed Options (PIO) These are fees for prep or options installed at the port of entry by the manufacturer. For example, Toyota has a Port Installed Option added to the cars once they land in Florida called ToyoGuard, an extremely overpriced rubberized coating sprayed inside your wheel wells to prevent rust. Sometimes this adds up to $600 your Toyota. Some port prep fees might only be $25. VW in Washington D.C. seems to have some PIOs that are unavoidable too.. 12. Registration Fees That's a tough one to determine, each state is different. There may also be small tire and battery fees around $10 levied by the state. In Florida, it's cheaper to transfer your plates from the trade-in to the new car, about $50 instead of $180 for new plates. Some states charge hundreds, so check with your DMV before going shopping. Print out the DMV fees online and bring them to the dealer. Quite often dealer charge up to $400 "document fees" supposedly to handle paperwork transfer of the plate, done by their lowest paid secretary. Give me a break. 13. Washington Association Fee Buyers in Washington D.C. buying a Volkswagen said the dealer tried to charge a $175 Washington Association Fee claiming it was "the cost that the manufacturer charged them for doing business in this area". We don't know if this is a valid fee or not. It sure sounds like a bogus charge to me. Factory Incentives & Rebates: Incentives are used by the factory to stimulate car sales to unload inventory. There's 2 kinds of incentives: Factory To Dealer and Factory To Consumer. Factory To Dealer Incentives You and I don't know about these. Sometimes Edmunds lists them, but they don't always show all the ones available. Incentives can be huge, and reduce the dealer's effective cost to buy the car. If there is one available on your car, many dealers are willing to give up some of it. Factory To Consumer Incentives (Rebates) Rebates are paid by the factory to you, or the dealer subtracts it from the price. Some states charge sales tax on it. A common scam at "No Haggle" dealers is to charge lower than MSRP, (MSRP - Rebate), so you really aren't getting a deal, so ask if the price includes a rebate. Rebates can be $500-$2000 or more, and put you ahead when you resell it years later. The rebate is from the factory, NOT the dealer. Don't let them jack up the price "because we are giving you a rebate", the dealer has nothing to do with the rebate. The factory subsidizes lower APR leases and 2% loans in lieu of rebates, but you need stellar credit. Conversion Vans, Custom Vehicles These are difficult find pricing. Conversion vans are sent by the manufacturer to a company who installs fancy molding, doors, windows, wheels, etc. They look better, and you pay more. But pricing sites have no info on custom vehicles. No one knows the pricing, so don't ask me. You can be taken for a ride because you are flying blind, with no reference pricing, but if you don't mind paying up to $9000 extra it's OK. Don't expect good resale value, they aren't popular or easy to resell. The "extras" packages that you will be given the hard sell on, including paint sealant and fabric treatment, will VOID your conversion package warranty. Have the dealer put it in writing it will not void the warranty. Ask to see the conversion warranty. If they don't have it, tell them to call the conversion company, you want to speak to them. If you get a song and dance, it's time to leave. Anytime they try to get out of giving you the information you ask for, it's time to leave. Call the conversion company ahead about the warranty. 5.谈价钱废话不用多说，你的秘密武器就是Pay by cash(使用cashier check): 遇到Dealer什麽话都不用多说，他把所有Fee开出来後和你谈总价， 你可以依照我上面给你的Tip，把一些太高与不必要的Fee去掉与减价後，再跟他说: My budget is only $$$, I will pay by cash. Could you sell it? 那他当然会跟你 废话很多说什麽这是最低价啦! 请不用客气，记住我说的dealer非善类，不行不符合 你的价钱就直接走人，有的dealer也是很不客气的，所以最重要的是谈到你要的价钱! 6.签约-->付check-->签文件-->把车开走 谈完价钱基本上就松了非常大一口气了，剩下的就大概是我上面列的流程! 要记住的是 你一定会知道你的VIN Number，即使你的plate还不知道，如果Dealer说他不知道， 他一定在骗人，这绝对是要离那Dealer远一点走人的! 你所签的文件里面大概会有他们 准备要帮你办plate啥的，Plate大概是距离你买车之後2个礼拜dealer会拿到， 你自己再去他们那边拿然後把车牌挂上。你买完车当天可以开走是因为你会有 Temperatory plate，所以这是不用担心的!! 基本上大概是这样了! 希望有帮助到一些人! 也希望有回馈到板上的各位! 打字打得好累! 如果有要买车的人! Good Luck! ^^ -- --

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